This is the second and last untold story of this summer which also took place in Java but this time to visit the enigmatic Borobudur Temple.
About 2,5 million of people visit Borobudur each year and 80% of them are Indonesians. A statistic that shows how this site is barely known outside of its borders.
The mystery surrounding Borobudur is just as fascinating as the site itself
There is no written record explaining who built this largest Buddhist monument in the world or of its intended purpose. Historians estimate that it was built between the 8th and 9th century and its construction lasted 75 years.
The site remained hidden for centuries under volcanic ash from Mount Merapi. The reasons behind this abandonment are unknown. Some assume that the series of volcanic eruptions have forced the pilgrims to leave while others believe that the fall of the Hindu-Buddhist kingdom and the beginning of the Islamisation of Java would be the causes.
Borobudur was rediscovered in the 19th century when Java was under the Britain rule and was restored with UNESCO’s help. It now appears on the list of the world heritage sites protected by the UNESCO.
A unique architecture
Borobudur is a single monument, called stupa, consisting of four platforms. When viewed from above the stupa takes the form of a huge mandala. Each platform represents one stage of the path to enlightenment (nirvana) according to the Buddhist cosmology.
Graphic by Gunawan Kartapranata / CC BY-SA 4.0
Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borobudur
Sunrise at Borobudur
During my visit with my friend Marie-Lise, we have not reached the nirvana, but we have been enveloped by a soft and serene energy that accompanied us throughout this great day of sightseeing that lasted 16 hours!
We arrived at Borobudur at dawn to see the sunrise which is very popular among tourists. Surprisingly, there was a certain calm despite the crowd. We were overwhelmed by the beauty of the surrounding nature. The light gradually revealed this highly spiritual place which we were already able to feel the vibrations.
The fog of the dawn over the mountains made this moment even more mystical. We started to have a glimpse of the two volcanoes, the majestic Mount Merapi, the most active of all Indonesia bursting constant smoke, and the Mount Merbabu.
72 Stupas and bodhisattvas
The sunrise was observed from the upper terrace where are located the huge perforated stone bells with a bodhisattvas (being in the state of enlightenment) inside. The sun had lifted the veil, we could now admire the site in all its glory including the lush vegetation surrounding it.
504 Buddha statues
On the third platform are scattered statues of Buddha according to the four cardinal points. The hand position, called mudras, subtly varies from one statue to another. Mudras are associated with the five cardinal points including the zenith at the top of the monument where stands another statute of Buddha.
2,672 reliefs
We then went down to the lower levels to see the reliefs recounting the life of Buddha, the statues and the beautiful gargoyles.
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I read later on that there is hidden structure under the base of the monument with reliefs describing the “suffering-laden cycle of life, death, and rebirth”. Some scenes describe reprehensible activities, gossip, the pains of hell and the pleasures of paradise. According to Buddhism, our goal is not to have a happy life, but to get out of this cycle called samsara by attaining nirvana. The desire to hide those earthly realities to the pilgrims would be one of the hypothesis that explain why this part of the monument has been kept out of sight.
By visiting Borobudur, it made me think of all those incredible sites such as Angkor Wat, Mayan and Egyptian pyramids and the Machu Picchu that hold such a mystery in the way those majestic sites were built and how. All their beauty lies precisely in that mystery.
The Prambanan Hindu Temples in a wink
After Borobudur, we visited another important site of the Yogyakarta region, the Archaeological Park of Prambanan built in the 10th century in honour of the three major Hindu gods Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma.
A glimpse of Yogyakarta
This article would be incomplete without talking about the Special Region of Yogyakarta home of the temples of Borobudur and Prambanan. My time there was too short to write a complete article about it, but I can tell you that this ancient royal city is recognized as a major hub in Java and Indonesia in education. It is a university town known for classic and modern art – there is graffiti everywhere – batik, ballet, puppetry and so on.
It is still very authentic and traditional. The Becak (bicycle taxi) and the street food vendors are everywhere.
The maze of narrow streets alone is worth exploring. It took me forever to learn how to pronounce the name of this town until I was told that I could only say its nickname “Jogja”.
With these images full of mystery and serenity, I am sending you a gentle breeze of love.
Happiness and serenity,
Nathalie
